User:Pakal0l0/mflb design

Design & Manufacturing

This article contains detailed information about the design and manufacturing of the Box. For a general overview and links to other detailed descriptions of the Box, please see the Magic-Flight Launch Box Main Article.

The Launch Box is a conduction vaporizer, how can it be efficient?

While it is true that, in general, convection vaporizers will be more efficient overall than conduction patterns, the performance gap can be narrowed significantly with various techniques and in some cases even dramatically exceeded! The Box performance is much better than any other vaporizer in its class due to the following four factors:

1. The Box generates vapor only when needed--it does not waste any vapor by staying hot between hits or by continuing to cook the load after you have had enough. Loaded material can continue to be cycled over any extended period of time, delivering vapor when you want it without ever having to wait or waste. Conscious user technique with the battery can ensure that there is zero lost vapor every time.
2. The Box makes careful use of infra-red characteristics in its design. While pure conduction designs tend do work very poorly, pure IR vaporizers (although very uncommon and very expensive) tend to be fairly good since they have overall heat distribution characteristics very similar to pure convection designs for smaller loads. The Launch Box is not "just" a conduction vaporizer--it is also has significant IR characteristics.
3. The Box incorporates several vapor channel flow features to ensure the absolute minimum vapor condensation. Convection vaporizers necessarily need to use significantly more heat energy to operate efficiently--heat which must be removed from the vapor prior to ingestion. Any surfaces, piping, or water chambers used to cool the vapor are also condensation sites. Condensed vapor is lost vapor and that means that a big pipe overall is less efficient. Any parts that require occasional cleaning also indicate a significant volume of previously lost vapor. Used naively, the Box rarely requires any cleaning since it delivers the vapor directly to you--without converting some of it into black gunk along the way.
4. Since the Box uses only and exactly as much heat energy as is needed for vaporization (the Box is easily one of the worlds most energy-efficient vaporizers), the enclosed chamber can be designed to allow for the simplest and most reliable form of mechanical stirring possible: shaking. By shaking the Box between hits, the previously ground load can be evenly re-mixed to ensure much more even heating. The clear lid also allows for immediate inspection as to determine both the effectiveness of the stirring and the degree of completion.  In this way, good user technique can result excellent overall performance and efficiency.

In summary, in-house lab testing has shown the Box vape to be nearly as efficient as the best convection vapes (when used correctly), and noticeably better than most.  

Finally, it is important to keep in mind that the Box is optimized for convenience--it was never intended to be "the worlds most efficient vape". Dollar for dollar, the Box delivers more vapor in more locations more naturally. That is what it is best used for.

Also, what good is a "super efficient vaporizer" if you do not also use it very consistently? If you end up smoking because you are away from the home and have no place to plug it in (or prefer not to wait five minutes for it to heat up!) then your "average efficiency" has gone way down. Getting fairly good efficiency most of the time is very much better overall (health wise and cost wise) than getting great efficiency only occasionally. For most people, actual practical convenience is much more important in real life than some elusive abstract ideal of "efficiency".

What temperature is the Box designed to work at?

The "science" of vaporization seems to indicate that the optimal temp for vaporization is a constant 380F (193C) so that is what Magic-Flight aims for in all of their designs. At manufacture, the Box is calibrated to be at 380F (193C) four seconds after the moment it is started, assuming a fairly slow constant draw rate and average environmental conditions. The temperature in the Box is far from constant, however. It changes continually depending on the rate of draw, over the range of about 260 on the low end to about (when drawing too fast) to about 450F (232C) when not drawing at all (and leaving it on for minutes at a time). Therefore, what Magic-Flight tries to do is to have the temp most easily stabilize at between 370F (188C) and 400F (204C) for a reasonable rate of draw.

The full range of temperatures, inclusive of all possible operating conditions, intended or accidental, available to the LB is anywhere from ambient to full combustion at 451F (233C). The typical operating temperature of the LB while in use tends to center at about 392F (200C)--this is the ideal. Accessible/common usage technique can easily allow for anything in the range of 329F (165C) to 410F (210C).

Ideally, if filled and let sit with the battery in and no drawing at all for 2 minutes, the contents of the bowl should turn very dark brown (and perhaps black on the bottom). We try to calibrate it hot enough so that it falls about 36F (20C) short of actual combustion under these conditions. If you shake/stir the Box (but do not draw or open the lid) during this test, you will get a better sense as to how the heating is occurring. Depending on the specific load (how dry it is, how finely ground, etc), the specific calibration of the particular LB unit and assuming zero draw rate conditions, actual ignition conditions *might* be achieved in as little as 30 seconds. For most units shipped under most conditions, the time will be noticeably longer.

During normal draw, the Box should be hot enough to create vapor when looking at the draw hole, but not to obviously create large visible clouds (it is not designed for that). If you can see the vapor on exhale, it is either wasted vapor or smoke--both conditions to be avoided. Really, the best test of the Box is how how it delivers the medical qualities of the herb--what the user feels like 3 minutes after taking a few hits, rather than on what can be seen when exhaling or what is felt in the first 30 seconds or so. Also, if after taking several hits (with shaking in between) the contents are all brown, then it is certain that all available vapor has been created, and presumably ingested. If the contents are still mostly green after several hits (not just some army green specs) and are not mostly brown, then there is a chance that the Box may be running a bit cool (else, check the battery charge and slow the draw rate).

Is there some sort of test we can do at home to gauge the temperature of our LB?

Unfortunately no. The IR characteristics make a lot of difference, so it's either special built optical gear (what Magic-Flight uses) or embedded thermocouple--neither option available for home use.

What materials are used to make the Launch Box?

Select birch wood, stainless steel (ie, same as used in high end cooking pans), copper plated steel (electrical), acrylic (also called Plexi-glass) cover, and a stainless steel spring clip (hinge for the cover). There is no solder (ie no lead). There are no hazardous materials used. The added/optional draw pipe accessories (not necessary to use the Box) are also made of acrylic. There are no chemicals used for bonding--it is a physical process. Magic-Flight has made all possible efforts to ensure/guarantee the complete and total health and safety of this device. 

Overall, the Box is very durable (can be dropped without harm, etc). The only part which is more delicate is the internal screen which is very thin--use only the provided brush as a tool in direct contact with the screen. If the screen becomes damaged (whatever the reason) Magic-Flight will send a replacement Box unit (it's part of the warranty--the screen itself is not end-user replaceable).

The LB is durable and practical as well as safe. Purists who absolutely and dogmatically insist that everything be made of only borosilicate glass are gently advised to consider the products of other vendors instead of the LB.

Have you considered using other woods?

Magic-Flight uses Birch because it has certain machining characteristics that are "just right"--not too hard or too soft. This wood is also preferred due to its being more environmentally sustainable than nearly all other hardwoods. Magic-Flight has occasionally made a few sample units out of Maple, Cherry, Walnut, Zebrawood, Koa, and some other exotics; however, due to certain subtleties of the machine process, working these other hardwoods can be problematic and more expensive. The considerations are:

1. Is it available? (Sustainable production, safe to harvest and use, etc)
2. Can Magic-Flight process it? (Does it dull tools, is it too hard)
3. Are there restrictions on its use? (import limits, endangered, too smelly, too porous, etc). 

At some point, custom and special request processing for particular specialty woods might be offered at an extra cost, although there are no plans for that at the moment.

Is there any kind of finish or oil put on the wood of the box?

Yes, one coat of odorless/pharmaceutical food grade butcher block oil to prevent discoloration due to handling (skin oils). The wood is otherwise unfinished/untreated and guaranteed natural.

Why not make the device in one step using castable (pourable) ceramic, or use ruggedized silicone, or machine blocks of PTFE (Teflon) vs. wood?

A company--a business--is more than simply a collection of its products and its people. To truly be "successful" in a more meaningful and lasting sense, rather than considering just the functionality of things, it is also necessary to consider the values embodied in them. Magic-Flight uses wood not only because it is nearly a perfect fit for the required functionality, but also because it is an expression of their collective values.

If considered *only* from a functional perspective Teflon or silicone could almost work (glass and ceramic are definitely out because of improper thermal characteristics and because they are to heavy). However, both of these products are seriously synthetic and have non-biodegradable lifespans on the order of one hundred thousand years or more. Having a lifetime warranty is one thing; creating yet more trash in the world 300 years from now is another. Wood is truly the best material to use, both from a functional perspective and also from a values and meaning one as well.  

Keep in mind also that the need to "perfectly clean" the unit is purely a psychological one and/or a legal one--it is not (and never has been) a functional issue. People want to remove all trace of what was put into the Box as a reaction to an improperly designed set of prohibition laws. These laws are themselves reactionary, disabling, and needing to get fixed. If we are going to "improve" or "fix" something, lets concentrate our efforts on what is going really solve the problem and be effective--repeal the ridiculous plant prohibition laws!

Isn't wood also organic and inherently porous--a breeding ground for bacteria and fungi?

This is simply not true. Wood has natural resistive aspects that actively prevent the breeding of bacteria, fungi, and mold. Keep in mind that the growing tree in nature has a strong incentive to evolve in a direction that will preserve and protect its wood from invasions of these exact types. Each of the various types of wood have various oils and aromatics within the wood itself that work to protect the wood. Magic-Flight does not need to add these--they are already there and are much better functionally than anything they could invent. Wood has to be exposed to wind, rain, and sunlight a fairly long time for bio-degrade to be possible in nature--years, typically. When Magic-Flight adds their own sealants to the wood, it slows this process by a factor of 10x or 20X. Therefore, given the average of the exposure environments and this slowing, the wood in the Box should be able to last a hundred years or more--plenty long enough.

If you have any doubt of these facts, consider that there have been safety studies conducted on the relative merits of wood cutting boards in the kitchen vs Teflon ones. Although some vendors would prefer that you not know this, it is actually the case that Teflon cutting boards are far worse breeding grounds for bacteria and fungi than wood ones. Both types of cutting boards have tiny grooves in them (due to the action of the knife while in normal use)--grooves which can provide a home for bacteria and fungi. However, while the Teflon boards are inert, and thus do nothing to inhibit the growth of these cells, the natural oils in the wood make it much less likely that such cells can multiply and survive. These studies have shown that for most folk in most situations, wooden cutting boards are far safer. Only in industrial kitchens that regularly clean with chemical sterilization techniques can the disadvantage of Teflon be (temporarily) offset.

Has Magic-Flight ever tried increasing the area of contact between the screen and the herb?

Yes, they have. Extensively. It turns out that the shape, size, and angles of orientation all matter. A lot. Surprisingly, these additional aspects make the surface area of contact factor one somewhat less important in the overall design. Certain dimensions have more to do with time rate of change in the degree of criticality due to the specific angles of enclosure as seen from different points in the chamber. It is more of an IR effect than a surface of contact effect. This sort of esoterica can quickly get rather complicated to explain.

Why is there no on/off switch or button on the device?

Several reasons:

1. Magic-Flight wanted to keep the cost under $100 retail.
2. Although a single switch will not by itself make the difference, making it possible to use one requires too many side effects to the design. Using high energy electronic methods to get around the problems has even worse side effects on the design.
3. There are issues of reliability. For example, the LB needs to switch fairly high current (more than 5 amps) AND it must be very small. This means that "a simple switch that is reliable" is also more expensive than you might expect (think many dollars, not pennies). There are actually very few switches which would even work in the LB, despite the variety of components available these days. (Small means low-current; high-current means large--realistically, there is not much overlap.)

However, Magic-Flight recently introduced a "battery pushback ring" that can act in the same way as a push-button switch. For units so equipped, the back end of the battery becomes the push-button--pressing the battery into the unit turns it on, and releasing pressure will turn the unit back off. These pushback rings can be added (retrofit) into existing Boxes--see BlissSville.com for details.

Where is the air intake?

The shallow groove on the top face, connecting the bowl area with the negative terminal ring is the air inlet hole. It's not optional, it is necessary for the functionality of the unit (and certain air patterns, etc).

Is the copper contact ring supposed to intrude into the battery hole?

The contact ring is supposed to be somewhat in the battery hole--it needs to be to make the negative terminal connection with the battery.This is by design, and it should be firm/tight with the battery.

Is there a risk of "copper toxicity" from heating the copper contact coil up?

Magic-Flight would not have claimed "no hazardous materials" if they did not feel that it was well supported by the physical facts. They have done as much research on this topic (presented elsewhere in these answers) as they believe to be necessary to assure the safety of all users of our product. Therefore, until someone provides some sort of real evidence/research (ie, something more supported than speculation and/or opinion), they will continue to suggest that it is not worth worrying about. They do also, however, encourage any and all interested parties to do their own research and come to their own conclusions--particularly if they report back to Magic-Flight if there is found to be anything worth talking about and most especially if they can do so in a reasonably well informed and professional manner. So far, all indications have been that the temperatures involved are far too low for there to be anything worth thinking about.

Does the bottom of the trench have a brown tint when the Box is new?

Yes--we have started using a new burn-in technique that allows us to check the unit calibration. The discoloration is normal.

My serial number is in the XX,000s. Does that mean you've produced over XX,000 boxes?

The number is non-sequential. It contains some quality control codes that allow us to identify the batch if there ever turn out to be any QA issues that need to get fixed.  

Magic-Flight recently converted to 6 and 7 digit serial codes, so some people will start noticing these. Early boxes from the first production batch have 4 digits--those Boxes were purchased by their early adopters, sometime in June or July.

There is no Box number 1--sorry. There are no 1 or 2 digit Boxes either. It's doubtful that there are even any 3 digit ones--if there are, they are extremely rare--probably collectors items by now. A handful of "special" numbers have also been reserved.

Why is the draw hole partially obstructed?

The Box has a small lip just inside the draw hole. This lip is necessary to prevent the draw stem from being inserted incorrectly and damaging the screen.

What is the smaller hole on the other end for? Do I lose vapor from it?

The smaller hole on the opposite end of the Box is part of the assembly process. It is not connected to the vapor chamber so there is no possibility of losing vapor through it. You can plug it if you wish.

I heard that two rubber rings were added to the Box design, what are they for?

A rubber O-ring was added around the opening to the herb chamber to prevent material from getting trapped and to reduce or eliminate the possibility of dislodging the screen from its original position.

A small rubber washer was added at the base of the battery hole to provide some resistance that prevents accidental battery contact. With this ring in place, you have to apply pressure to make contact and heat up the screen. These rings can be added retroactively and are available from www.blisssville.com. Alternatively, if you don't like the ring it can be removed with a pair of tweezers.